TOMORROW!

The antique roadshow comes to HULL, kinda...

The Library is sponsoring a TRINKETS to TREASURE event at the Salt Water Club tomorrow 9/28 from 1-4pm. They will appraise your antiques (jewelry, china, coins, no artwork) for $5 each or 3 for $10.

Perhaps I'll take my stern to stem trinkets and see how much treasure I actually scored.

soup of the day

       

                                                            Squash you soup

49 degrees. I can’t feel my toes. After spending the last few incredibility windy nights on the rocking unheated Viking, I’m land sick. I stumbled into the bakery this morning to get the captain his favorite coffee this time of year, pumpkin spice. I think this sweet Hullonian couple I met, Dave and Barbara of the ‘Rose Kennedy dollhouse’ thought I was drunk. And the old guy in his signature denim overalls the corner, who is usually on his 4^th scratch off card by 8:15am, gave me an approving smile.

Today is soup day! I starting making a Haitian soup called soup Joumou, which conveniently calls for whatever veggies are laying around.  It is a pumpkin based soup that I fell in love with while living in Haiti; it was the only meal the chef of the house I stayed in made that was 'vegetarian'; the most un-com-pre-hin-ble, western word to Haitians. I might as well just said I ate asteroids and lived on Venus. The soup is traditionally made with meat, but Haitian chef Lifete, the Whompi Goldberg of Haiti, had her own version. Just like me.

 I like to create and experiment each time I cook. Perfect for the captain who puts thai hot chili powder on everything I make anyways, killing all subtle delicate flavors. He could live on to-go foods at Tedeschi’s (7-11 of the Northeast) "Food is fuel. It doesn't matter as long the engine runs." 

Little does he know my little creations balance out all those corn syrup solids and mystery meats he involuntarily gets from eating a SAD diet- Standard American Diet. (such a apropos acronym)

                                                You Soup Recipe

              Make it up and be sure to use surprise items found in your refrigerator's bottom drawer

1.     Steam squash, pumpkin, whatever. Toss some chopped up Russet potatoes in the water beneath the squash (so efficient this boatlife is making me)

2.     Drain and set aside (funny how recipes tell you to do the obvious)

3.     Using a little coconut oil (it can handle high temps unlike olive) sauté garlic, onions (if you have, one- shit I meant to buy one), fresh fennel and ginger (great for digestion), cumin, fresh turmeric root and burdock roots, booth of which have powerful properties for cleaning the blood of impurities, like a captain's bag of Milano cookies and half bottle of Goslings mixed with case of high fructose corn syrup Ginger Ale. "Give me a break, babe? Its Sunday funday!" as he continues ripping the linoleum floor from the Viking's galloy to reveal the beautiful dark wood beneath.

‘Let thy food be thy medicine.’- Hippocrates

4.     Add those steaming carbs back into the pot.

5.     Pour in a can of Veggie stock/broth, unless you are a real woman and have time to make a batch.  Add wakame; seaweed is a smart way to get missing minerals like magnesium into the diet. Most of our soils are depleted these days from commercial farming practices of fertilizing, so: ‘Buy local, buy organic.’ I guess Chinese imported seaweed breaks that new age cliché I preach. How can one win?

6.     And my secret ingredient: dock water. I ran out of bottled water, errrh.

7.     Simmer, stir, top with sprouts and serve the ‘starving’ captain before he eats the bag of pretzels while waiting. The Viking will be serving lots of pretzels,compliments of Deli Pretzel Crisps Rep. Nicholas.
iI earned a stack of free pretzels coupon after cutting Nic, a surfer on Nantasket Beach, out of his wetsuit because the zipper was stuck. 

f                                               fine dining on the Viking

 Coming later this week: The Daddy's Hotdog Eating Contest I filmed at this year's Endless summer,                           

                                               Disgustingly awesome! 

The Viking days begin....

...After a 70 mile voyage from Woods Hole, through the Cape Cod Canal, up the eastern seaboard and across the Bay of Boston, the Viking, a 40ft wooden dragger (fishing vessel) built in 1929, is at her new home: Sunset Bay Marina in Hull with her new Captain, Matthew Henning. He plans to restore the Viking this winter at the marina, a restoration that will begin with phase one: a new deck and ribs and maybe even a below deck living quarters that doesn't smell is like moldy fisherman's socks from the 1930s. We will see how much gets accomplished after we launch a kickstarter (this is not a link to our kickstarter page, just the site) campaign to raise funds. Next summer the Viking plans to host charters and historical tours around the Boston Bay. As for now, she (I've learned boats are female) is at the dock.

 It feels as if we have a new baby, only the cry is the bilge pump dumping leaking gallons of water out every 15 mins. Matt has been diving into these freezing Northeastern waters at all hours of day and night to repair newly leaking seams since the voyage. It used dump every hour according to Peter Rowell and Jake Fricke, her previous owners in Woods Hole. These noble boys acquired The Viking from a guy who bought the boat from long time captain Craig Coutinho for the Viking's more commercially valuable fishing permits. The idea for the actual vessel was to sell it or send it to the graveyard; an idea that Peter and Jake refused to let happen. They saved the Viking and did their best to keep her afloat, but after a year they realized they didn't have the facilities to restore her. That's when they Craig's listed her.

After finding the Viking's listing at midnight, Matt insisted on going to see his "dream boat" the next day. And on September 6th, oddly the same day the Viking came into the Coutinho family in 1946, we made the trip down to the Cape. Peter and Jake picked us up from the dock and we took the skiff out into Great Harbor, where the Viking was floating like a scene out of a children's book at the mooring.

                                     
Matt hoped aboard and disappeared below deck. An hour later he came up from the engine room, covered in grease (as usual) to announce, "She is pretty rotten, really rotten down below. Geez, she's in pretty bad shape."

Jake and Peter nodded, "Yeah man, we know." They went on to explain if she stayed in Eel Pond, a harbor in Woods Hole where boats are stored for winter, she might sink; well probably would sink and besides, as an oyster farmer (Jake) and carpenter (Peter) with a new baby, they don't have a couple of extra thousands laying around to store her anyways. The sun began to fade behind Martha's Vineyard in the distance, yet the chilly late summer evening was warmed by Wood's Hole stories of the Viking: the drunken summer nights of skinny dipping and jumping off the crow's nest, hosting pirate parties for kids and tying up regatta style along a half pipe built in the harbor for the wake of a teen who passed in Woods Hole last November. Jake and Kim (Jake's lovely marine biologist girlfriend) spent a romantic summer living aboard. Kim jokingly shares that she basically only slept on the Viking and turned her marine biology lab into her closet and bathroom.
As for a kitchen, breakfast was always at Pie in the sky and dinners were around town or at Jake's parent's house; his dad, "the Rooster" crafts micro batches of salsas and chocolates these days with his insane collection of the world's hottest peppers. Holy Trinidad Moruga Scorpion! Along with the light hearted fun stories of summer, the evening air held a deep reverence for what the Viking is, and will always be: a part of New England maritime history. We spoke about the Viking's legacy, which included an explosion and a sinking; a more detailed history can be found in the Vineyard's Gazette .

"This boat has been through WWII and 'Nam, heard the Beatles and the Y2K bullshit, man."

"Yeah, she fished the whole time too. Up until 2012."

"It would be a shame to let her go down."

 The wind began sweeping harder, The Viking's old plank deck creaked 'save me' as she rocked under the stars and Milky Way that have been smiling down on her all these decades. The Viking held us in silence. 84 years. She is older and wiser than all of us, built in an era long before our generation with its throw away mentality. She a 'real boat'.

"I'm freezing!"

"Beers?"

 At Land's Fall Restaurant, an eclectic crowd of sports coats accompanying Christian Laboutin heels from the Vineyard mingled with working man's Carhartts and marine biology types. Wood's Hole is a mecca of international marine science labs; the NOAA is home to the country's oldest aquarium. The boys finished another round. I sipped hot tea and dreamed of ordering the 34 dollar Scallops.

 "I want to say yes, man, but I just don't know if I'm the guy for The Viking. She's alotta work."

"I think your the guy, man."

"I'm going to sleep on it."
   
 Perhaps, Matt head the same creak I did at 3:00am a week later. He got of bed, "Babe, I'm buying the Viking."

A yawning reply, " You sure?"

"For the record, I decided sober."
He drank half a bottle of Gosling and went soundly back to sleep.

On Friday the 13th, we returned with all a wad of $20s pulled from multiple ATMs with their $500 limits to purchase the Viking. Matt dived in and began scraping underneath the boat, that year's barnacles and algae covered the surface. After she was scraped and Matt's hands too, it was time to check the engine, something Jake and Peter confidentially said was working fine, but on this auspicious date, nothing was. After two trips for parts and friends of Viking showing up with other random needed things, the engine was steaming.

almost midnight- Matt hooks up some lighting, navigation equipment and all other sorts of wiring work I have no clue how to explain other than it felt as if he's been on this boat before, another life. How did he know how to fix the 1941 471 Detroit engine by a little flashlight he held in his mouth as his blackened hands pulled oil lines and unscrewed rusty bolts?

1:00am "Last thing we need is the submersible pump (pumps out water if a boat starts to sink) outta of the backseat of Anna's car. Just in case," Matt laughed from the crow's nest 30 feet up where he was finishing the navigation lights.

"Geez, if need that thing," Simon, a friend of Viking who lives on his boat a few moorings over, shouts as he climbs aboard with provisions for the journey that is to begin a few hours with the outgoing tide.

3:00am I make Matt stop fixing things and try to sleep a few hours on the couch (our new living room) before the rays of dawn crept up on his already fatigued body.

6:00am "Coffee is hot!" Jake and Kim show up with Pie in the Sky. Simon with the first of the provisions: loxs and bagels. First mate Peter and Captain Matt fire up the old diesel engine. Black steam puffs across the harbor. Jake, Kim and I watch her disappear into the rising sun, a moment I feel weighing heavy in Jake's heart.

"You going to miss that boat eh, Jake?"

"Worse and best decision I ever made in my life. At least, I 'll get some sleep now."

noon- The Viking makes her way to the Cape Cod Canal just as the main engine starts having fuel issues. They decide to pull into Sandwick, a marina at the east end. Upon entering the marina the Viking loses steering. With Simon at the throttle, Matt wrenching the steering gear by hand and Peter getting the lines ready, they make it on the dock just fine. All fixed in an hour's time and the Viking is off again, heading northward.

3:00pm- A boater from the Vineyard recognizes the Viking from childhood and steams along for a half hour catching the story of where she is heading.

4:00-11:00pm, the boys share no updates other than they are 'out of cigarettes, damn.'

11:00pm A port running light appears across the Boston Bay from Sunset Bay Marina. It looks like a sailboat from afar, but its the light up on the dragger's beam. The wild Texan cowgirl and her gangster Bostonian husband who spend their summers boating, have thrown a party for the Viking's arrival. The Viking's new marina friends have gathered to welcome her home to dear, Hullonia. Resident DJ Dave blares The Irish Rover's Drunken Sailor song.

The Viking (like her on facebook) days begin yet again...

                             Superstitious sea man of a boyfriend, Captain Matt, thinks a vessel won't sink 
                             if a picture of the Captain's lady is aboard (my pic for him, thanks Jean)
                                     

Coming soon in October:
    Full interview and vintage photos and film footage of the Viking's days with the Coutinho family!

alchemy of love: transforming crap into treasure

Last weekend over 120 yards participated in the Hull wide yard sale, Stem to Stern. Although I'm banned from, "bringing anymore crap on the boat" (my boyfriend and I share 34ft of floating space these days) I ventured out in promise of only documenting the event for blogging purposes.
Arriving at 9 Nantasket Ave to Horizon condominiums at 2:30, rows of tables lined up down the sidewalk, each rented from the city for $10. I didn't realized the sale ended at 3pm. The Rotary Club's three tables were still filled with "junk" according to the volunteer, who moments before three o'clock decided, "Everything is free people, just take it! Load up, because don't want to again." An ensuing frenzy and battle of hand-outs began, myself as greedy as the other Hullonians as we pilfered through: used winter clothes, glass ware, random plates, old appliances, tools, piles of Christmas decor and once memorable, cheap souvenirs. I scored two pairs of leather gloves and small lantern candle. An easy sneak onto the boat.

                                          ROTARY give-away

Next stop, a Horizon condo retiree's table displaying his world travels: hand-carved wooden African elephant envelope opener, hand painted Japanese Porcelain sushi sets, the accompanying rice cooker for 25, dive gear... the years he's given up on living. "I just don't want anything anymore. I'm done." I wish I felt the same: I want everything! My mind raced to think of hosting sushi parties on the dock, diving reefs, perhaps, I might even get a real letter one day ( I'm of the AOL generation) and use that awesome opener, and the rice cooker too, of course. Oh and those wooden bowls from Costa Rica marked $12, the big pot for cooking steamers....

"Okay give me $5 for the sushi set, $4 for the bowls, $1 for the pot, kid."

"You are invited to my sushi dinner for sure!"

Next stop, a lady packing up a beautiful hand-painted Chinese plate. The perfect match for my sushi ware.  Sold! Half off- $4, down from the marked $8 and two complimentary dish towels.
Pushing her shopping cart of unsold goods by my next sidewalk stop, the table with free strawberry cake with purchase, she stops, "Watch, Chinese plate ware is going to be worth a fortune soon and I sold you my best one."

"Don't worry, I'll find you and we'll split e-bay sales."

 She half smiles and carts on.

The last stop: the everything is a nickel table. I collect wooden handled grill-ware and my favorite item, the faded 80s  beach chair. I unfold it in the sidewalk and sit, trying it on. Wobbly.
  
"How much?"

"How much do you want to pay?"

I look at the ripping seat and then back at her.

"Well all needs is some sewing here on the seam or some tape if you can't sew, honey. I've fixed these type of chairs before."

"So what is it worth to you?"

"25 cents is fine."
Five times the inflation rate of her nickel table, more than the black velvet suit and crystal.  

One giant brown grocery bag later of "crap" and the pot (wooden bowls stuffed inside) that won't fit inside the bag, I carry my "treasures", along with the beat up chair under the arm and my a apart of my promise, one measly photo to document the sales, to the boat. Hopefully he isn't there, I can stuff things away and present them in ways they will be appreciated as treasures. Sushi dinner by romantic candle light, new spatula when we finally get a grill....

Reality bites. He's there, enjoying a beer (of course)
"What is all this crap?"

"It is only crap when its not valued any longer."

He peaks in the bag, gloves on top, "More clothes!'

"Now they are treasures."

"You need two pairs?"

"Hey- the rule is one bag and they fit."

I toss them into my one permitted bag of clothing allowed on the boat. I down-sized my Miami walk in closet and beautiful guest house of 'treasures' into one suitcase, well three actually (two I stashed at his dad's). A girl sacrificing her wardrobe for one shelf in a boat with a forever breaking head... doesn't he know that means i love you, the boy who lived out of a backpack for the last three years while traveling the world and building a ship in the process while I spent the last three years settled, teaching kids and collecting.  An old romance rekindled here in Hullonia. A romance that began in our early twenties when he moved from his hometown of Old Saybrook to Miami with my best friend, his girlfriend at the time. one dinner party at my condo later, "He's all yours babe."

"What are you talking about? You can't hand-me-down a boy! Bags and shoes are different."

"Trust me, he's for you." She left, alone.

Totally offended and deep inside knowing she was right, I gave him a hammock on the patio for six months until he moved onto a boat next to my current boyfriend's boat. The boyfriend, who met him and tearfully broke up with me the next week, "You belong with this guy, not me." Finally, years of friendship later, it all changed during the christina vicky barcelona flick. As fast as love came, it left. We traveled our own ways for the last four years, until this summer.

I opened a fortune cookie: The love of your life will appear before your eyes. Moments later a Facebook message: I'm coming back to America next week, where are you?

And here we are,  in Hull, playing ping-pong: treasure vs crap. It continues into many evenings, continues until we for once have dinner in proper bowls and plates, not the minimalist boyfriend's love of less: eating out of pots and the bonus of not having to do dishes. Candle lit. Fresh New England flounder on the fancy chinese plate. Hingham farmer's market salad greens in our own wooden bowls. Chop stixs. soft jazz. Another golden pink sunset across the boston bay sinking into the horizon. A few beers later.... a lot crap becomes priceless treasure. Just like us.

                                          tah-dah!



 

"I hold the world record of hotdog eating, well around here anyway."

Hull's annual Endless Summer party is nearly two weeks away.  I was informed this morning, while having coffee with my boyfriend at the Salt Water Diner,  by last year's Daddy's Dogs Hot Dog Eating Competition winner -Good looking gal you got there fellow? She could do better though. -Yeah, she's alright, I guess.  - Just alright? You single sir? -Yeah, but I'm bald they say, you like bald guys? Hey, you kids going to the festival on the 21st? -What festival? -You must be new to Hull? -Yep, three weeks now. -Well you are looking at last year's winner of the hotdog contest.12 dogs with buns in 9 minutes.    And I got third in the pizza eating contest. - Can I snap a photo of you? -Louie Rivieccio. -Say cheese Louie! He looks at his photo snapped with the phone's camera -Damn they are right, I'm bald!